Cherie happened to be knocking around the interwebs the other day and somehow chanced upon a site for an obscure château we hadn’t heard of before: Château du Fresne. Little more than a half-hour’s drive away, this monument historique looked intriguing. So, Cherie made a quick phone call in order to arrange a tour of the place and off we went the next day.
Château du Fresne (https://chateaudufresne.org/) reposes quietly in a green valley just a few kilometers northeast of the town of Mayenne. A small, picturesque village bearing the pleasingly proud name of Champéon perches at a respectful distance just a couple of fields away. Finding the château is a bit of a challenge. As is often the case with more obscure rural destinations, Google Maps directed us down a country lane which quickly became a dirt track. We were later informed that this was the long-disused drive from the 17th century which now requires an off-road vehicle to navigate. Don’t go that way. Luckily, we have had the experience of these kinds of Google follies before and wisely turned around to seek an alternate route. We found it a few minutes later – minus the off-roading.
The residence and its principal outbuildings are arranged in a classic U-shape, the whole set amongst a pleasant natural setting of green fields and woods. The compound is surrounded by a substantial water moat, crossed by a stone bridge at the gates, opposite the house’s entrance. As it stands today, the house presents a restrained 18th century façade in the French country manner. It is pleasingly faded, wearing its age like a badge of honor. But the occupation of this site is said to reach back to at least the 12th century, if not earlier. Whatever the case may be, the place exudes a feeling of great age – in the best sense.
Casual visitors are welcome to view the exterior and the grounds. However, if you’ve arranged for a tour (for a minimal fee) you are shown the main residential rooms in the ground floor, the chapel and the outbuildings on either side of the house. Well worth the minimal effort. The owner, Angelo, is Dutch and he splits his time between du Fresne and Amsterdam where he is occupied with the art business.
We liked Angelo. He greeted us in a relaxed, casual manner which immediately put us at ease. And he proceeded to give the two of us a nice tour full of interesting history and anecdotes concerning past owners. Having a shared interest in architecture, restoration and decorative arts, we discussed in detail the many historical features still prominent in the residence and the challenges they face in preserving them. It’s a daunting task, to be sure, but well worth the effort. The house possesses some exceptional architectural woodwork, with elaborate carvings and rare painted decoration in abundance.
Standing at the house’s shoulder like an ancient spiritual advisor is the 12th century chapel of Sainte Marie Madeleine. It is a fine example of a medieval manorial household chapel. The chapel is intimate, comprised of a single bay with a narrow elevated gallery in the back, the whole perhaps able to seat twenty souls. Typically, the gallery is accessed by a separate doorway, probably leading to the lord’s private chambers. I could have happily lingered there for an hour or more, exploring all of the fascinating clues such buildings reveal. There remain faint hints of original painted wall decoration and structural alterations. Enough to incite the imagination to endless musings. It’s a real gem.
We also ducked in to the outbuildings which originally comprised a bakery, stables and barns. Though there is little to see in them today, these buildings demonstrate the ways in which manorial estates functioned as largely self-sufficient entities, producing, processing and consuming their own produce as well as the goods and implements needed to sustain them. The owners currently use the buildings for collaborative contemporary art exhibitions and other events. They also support an artist-in-residence program. Honestly, I can’t think of a better place to inspire the development of great art.
Perhaps the most unique aspect of Château du Fresne is its pigeonnier. Standing upon a small artificial motte in the middle of the broad moat, this dovecote was built in 1539 to celebrate the marriage of the lord at that time, Jean d’Athenaise. The dovecote is octagonal, with timber framing and brick infill, and perched upon granite pillars. It contains enough holes to accommodate 700 nests. The right to build a pigeonnier was held only by nobility. So, this seemingly humble and functional structure was in actuality a conspicuous status symbol at the time it was built. It also produced a steady supply of eggs and meat for the household. The dovecote at du Fresne is especially picturesque, being so quintessentially French. Its graceful aging and commanding presence quietly remind us all of an age obscured by the mists of time.
As we wound up the tour, our host invited us down into the cozy old stone kitchen, a remnant of the previous medieval hall which was replaced by the current house. There we chatted with him and a few guests which had been staying in the residence. We were served some flan and lemonade while an older cousin of his relaxed in the courtyard outside with her friend. It felt as though we had been invited to a relaxing weekend gathering at a private manor. I suppose that, in a manner of speaking, we were.
We very much enjoyed our visit to Château du Fresne. It was interesting, enriching and quite friendly – a pleasant way to pass an afternoon. If you’re in or near the area, it is decidedly worth paying a call into this charming example of France’s past country life. Under the guidance of its new owners, du Fresne also appears to have gained the promise of a bright and vivacious future. It certainly deserves it. And to that end, we wish them the best of luck in their endeavors.
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