This post has taken a few months to produce. Principally, because I am an arch-procrastinator. There is no task that I can’t put off until later.
Much later.
But, in my defense, it also took this long because the post covers two separate visits which – conveniently, for the purposes of stitching together this weak excuse – happened several months apart. Earlier this summer (June) we made a somewhat rushed trip to the town of Bayeux. Then, just a couple of days ago, we had a look around the town of Falaise. So, how could I have possibly written this post until today?
Erm … we’ll just ignore the fact that I could have simply done two separate blog posts. Arch-procrastinator, remember? Also, there is a through-line connecting these two town visits: the life of William the Conqueror. So let’s focus on that. Stay with me on this …
William (Guillaume in French or, commonly, Gulielmus, in Latin) was born in Falaise around 1027 or 1028. At the time, the town was the seat of power for the duchy of Normandie. A castle already stood on the rocky outcrop where the remains of the last fortifications exist today. After his father died while returning from pilgrimage to Jerusalem, little Billy became duke at the age of 7 or 8. Many years passed, during which the young ruler gained much experience in waging war and governing an expanding duchy. Finally, in 1066, he took a short sailing trip with a few buddies. On the way, they decided to conquer England and commission the stitching of the longest “Mission Accomplished” banner ever made. That banner ended up in Bayeux where boatloads of visitors (and their buddies) travel to see it firsthand. There. See? Through-line.
Bayeux is a small town of around 13,000 inhabitants, just a few kilometers northwest of Caen, in the département of Calvados. It’s also not very far from the D-day beaches. Interestingly, it is this relative proximity to the allied invasion landing sites that helped to spare the town from destruction. As a result, it is one of the very few villes in this part of Normandie to have retained its pre-war character.
We arrived in Bayeux on a beautiful day with only one solid objective in mind: the Bayeux tapestry. But that would come after lunch. We found a nice local bistro where we had a bite to eat and then made our way to Le Musée de La Tapisserie de Bayeux. Housed in a former 17th century seminary, this well-organized and well-presented museum houses excellent displays on the town’s history. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the tapestry itself. Actually, it is an embroidery: a linen textile base onto which wool thread of ten different colors is stitched.
The general scholarly consensus is that the “tapestry” was commissioned by William’s half-brother Odo, bishop of Bayeux (and proud new owner of massive parts of England, courtesy of brother Billy) in the 1070’s. Possibly created in southern England, it is thought to have been hung in Bayeux Cathedral (definitely worth a visit) after completion. The entire length (68.38 meters, or slightly over 224 feet) of the tapestry is displayed in a darkened room (to protect against damage from light) behind glass. We were happy to discover that one can get very close to the textile and see it in great detail. Absolutely brilliant to think that one is looking at an embroidery which is nearly a thousand years old.
Though relatively small, the center of town has a bustling high street. We were there in late June on a weekday and it was completely rammed with tourists – a good deal of them American or British. But, as is usually the case, the side streets are where few tourists dare to tread. And it’s there where we not only found a more peaceful version of Bayeux, but also some beautiful scenic gems. The narrow medieval streets of the old town are hedged in by lovely old buildings, many of which display interesting architectural facets which seem to be unique to the area. We spent an enchanting afternoon wandering aimlessly, willingly following the timeless cobblestones whither they wished to lead us.
We continued our Conqueror’s Trail – he was also called “the Bastard”, but Bastard’s Trail doesn’t quite have the same ring to it – by pulling into the even smaller town of Falaise. It was mid-November by now so there were almost no other visitors apart from us. I imagine, though, that the place can be thronging in the high season. I mean, one look at the magnificent, chalky ramparts, towers and donjon of the château standing watch over its town is more than enough to get your tourist juices flowing.
But first things first. As per usual, we arrived in town at lunchtime. We were hungry. And those tourist juices don’t just create themselves. So we nipped into a brasserie just opposite the castle and grabbed a bite to eat, stuffed in like sardines with locals who, I think, found us to be a curious diversion while they loudly bantered with each other over their meals. We all seemed to have a nice lunch and, by the time we walked out the door, they were laughing with us instead of at us. It was fun. And that little spark of connection between two cultures is always a rewarding feeling. So, we’ll take that as a win. Off to the château!
The illegitimate offspring of a duke and a local tanner’s daughter, William spent much of his early years in Falaise. In the very castle which we were privileged to visit that day. There has been a stone fortification of some kind on this rocky mound since circa 960. You can wander freely around the outer ramparts but there is a fee charged to enter the hub of the château-fort: the donjon. The square, imposing form of the principal surviving stone structure inside the walls has been restored – in some areas quite heavily. For some reason, the restorers erected a gargantuan concrete and steel-beam structure in front, apparently in an attempt to reference the original entrance but in a very post-modern, brutalist manner. We both found it to be a bewildering choice.
Once inside, we discovered that the main hall of the Norman keep has also been handled in a very strange way. The best way we could think to describe it is “early 2000’s exhibition hall chic”. But the good news is that the rest of the donjon has been much more sympathetically restored. There are several levels to see, even up to the rooftop for some nice views of the town and surrounding countryside. Overall, it’s a rewarding place to visit and worth the price of the ticket.
We are always keen to visit a nice church and there are two within easy walking distance from the castle. Our favorite was the most ancient and interesting L’Église de la Trinité. The current edifice stands facing the lovely Hôtel de Ville and the château beyond. It originates from the 13th century and after, but there has been a church on the spot since at least the 9th century. So, yeah, kinda old. La Trinité was heavily damaged during World War II but lovingly and expertly rebuilt. Of special note are the substantial portions built in the French Renaissance style (porch, various chapels). Quite special and beautiful. But the whole church is a gem and definitely a must-see.
Falaise has retained many vestiges of its 12th century town defenses. One special point along this circuit is the Porte dés Cordeliers. A picture-perfect châtelet guarding one entrance into the medieval town, this charming remnant completely entranced us both. It is sadly empty and seemingly abandoned, but so incredibly beautiful to our eyes. As we took our many photos, we madly schemed with each other as to how one could purchase it and make it the perfect home. This poor, neglected piece of history is crying out for help. We really hope it receives some attention soon.
We liked Falaise. Though small, and having suffered horribly during the last war, it is bursting with history. We ran out of time so we were unable to visit the museum dedicated to the experiences of the citizens of Falaise during the war (Les Civils dans la Guerre) but we hope to return to see it someday soon. A thriving commercial district lines the axis of the town too. So there are plenty of shops to browse. It was a fun time. And our only regret was that we didn’t have more time to spend there.
Bayeux and Falaise. You should visit them. We’re certainly glad that we did.
Finding Our France 