Cherie and I have been in a bit of a self-imposed lockdown. Not due to illness or lack of interest. We’ve just been busy with the many little things in life which can bog you down if you are not careful. Bills, banking, tax preparation (for two separate countries), a thousand little house projects, managing the holiday rental … how do people accomplish all of these things when they have jobs and kids?
The tasks just keep coming. But sometimes you just have to throw down the tools and have some fun. So we bravely ran away and took an afternoon off to visit a nice village about an hour’s drive southeast of us: Parné-sur-Roc.
Driving south, a few kilometers past the city of Laval, a country road takes you to Parné. We were lucky, in early March, to have sunny weather so we parked the car and took a long stroll through the village streets. Much of Parné stands upon a slope which rises from the Val d’Ouette where the small river slowly winds its way westward between verdant hills.
Parné’s a small place, home to around 1,300 inhabitants. But it has been around for several centuries. Probably since at least the time when the area was a province of the Roman Empire. They must be doing something right. During the Middle Ages the village found itself on the main pilgrimage route leading from Tours to Mont-Saint-Michel. In the 19th century, entrepreneurs of the area took advantage of local limestone deposits by building a series of successful lime kilns, the remains of which continue to rise above a row of workers’ cottages built to house their employees. Now, the main occupations are in agriculture, manufacture of aluminum and PVC building construction components, and a trout hatchery.
At the point where the old pilgrims’ way crossed the river spans a medieval bridge. Simple, with two arches (a third was added in the last century to facilitate water flow), this ancient bridge has somehow managed to last for centuries. It has seen countless travelers tread its roadway – ranging from the most humble animals to the very kings and queens of France itself. It’s a beautiful thing, with its quiet, timeless solidity and imbued with such deep history. Spending a few quiet moments here, with the sound of the burbling river and the songbirds chirping in the trees will do you much good.
Strolling up the hillside to the center of the village, we came upon a lovely church. Or, at least that’s how it seems in photos I’ve seen. We were disappointed to discover that Église St. Pierre is currently enshrouded in scaffolding. Head to toe. Front to back. Restoration is a constant fact of life in Europe. Which is, of course, a good thing. But it was a shame on this day. Because this 11th century church is also reputed to have 13th, 16th and 17th century fragments of frescoes remaining on the walls. We would have loved to see them, but the inside of the church was closed off as well. Perhaps another time.
There are several lovely houses ranging around the core of the village. There are some nice examples of medieval domestic architecture (my favorite) as well as from later periods. All of them blend together in a very pleasing way. Many have plaques which present a brief history of the building. We found them to be informative and interesting and they helped us better understand the area’s past. I wish our own town would do something similar.
We enjoyed our visit to Parné-sur-Roc. Because it’s a small place, it is probably best to include it as part of a day-trip to nearby Laval and Entrammes. The three together make for a full and well-rounded day of sightseeing. You won’t find any food or window shopping in Parné (or Entramme, for that matter), but Laval will serve you well in those respects. This small village is definitely worth a look.
Finding Our France 