Lassay-les-Châteaux – A Town And Two Castles

Posted on 14/07/2023 by John Kocan

This was a trip in two parts. We had our sights set on a nice little castle about which we knew very little. But the photo looked nice, so it seemed like it was worthwhile to have a look. Now, we’ve done a good bit of travelling at this point in our lives, so you would think we are experienced enough to always do a reasonable amount of research on the place we are planning to visit. At least the basics: where it’s located, how long to get there, will we have to tip the Elvis impersonator – again. Oh, and also: will the damn thing be open when we get there!? Well, this time we forgot to confirm that last tiny, but crucial detail. And that’s why this turned into a two-day adventure.

Needs Work – a Charming Fixer-Upper in Mayenne

Only an hour’s travel east of Fougères, Château de Lassay has graced the Pays de Mayenne for over five and a half centuries. At the time (May) Cherie’s mother, Valerie, was still visiting. In fact it was her last full day in France before flying back home to the U.S. She was eager for one last adventure. And Lassay seemed just right for the occasion. So, off we packed, enjoying a scenic drive through the verdant countryside of Mayenne under impossibly blue skies.

It Comes With a Town?! – Val and John Exploring the Streets of Lassay-les-Châteaux

Due to the aforementioned lack of preparation, our first surprise was that Lassay-les-Châteaux is not just a castle. It comes with a town. And a beautiful one at that! How did we not know this? Lassay is, in fact, a Petite Cité de Caractère and was voted third place this year in the nationwide Village Préféré des Français – a poll choosing the best places to live and visit in France. The latter is a big deal here in France, culminating in a big television show for the final announcement. It’s a visible demonstration of just how much pride the French take in their towns and villages. And justifiably so. Lassay-les-Châteaux is beautiful. And this town had us fully under its spell from the moment we drove in. Lovely, classic french small town architecture from all ages, set along meandering and cozy streets, tranquille and well-tended gardens, all bundled within a charming natural setting. What more could you ask for?

A castle! That’s what. And, wow!, they have a really good one. This 15th century beauty rests comfortably in the town’s western edge, watching over its inhabitants like some ancient mythical guardian. The three of us fetched up to the small car park in front of the castle, took a bit of a walkabout around its walls and then waltzed up to the gates – only to find out that it was closed. Doh! This was to be our second, rather less happy, surprise of the day.

Views of Lassay-les-Châteaux (click on the photos to enlarge)

Denied access to the château, we sought the solace of lunch. At least the restaurants were open. As it happened, we chose badly. Our meal was quite mediocre. But at least it gave us the energy to carry on. Lassay-les-Châteaux is a great town for strolling and we enjoyed a long afternoon of admiring the beautiful street scenes on display.

The Town Park and Gardens (click on the photos for larger versions)

The center of town covers hillsides which wrap around a small stream that gently burbles its way along at the bottom. On either side of this stream there is a very nice park. One can have a pleasant, shaded walk there, soaking in the tranquility of a small town quite at ease with itself. In addition to the more formal flower garden, there is also an animal enclosure where locals keep chickens, geese, sheep and goats. Also on display are some impressively well-tended private vegetable and pleasure gardens lining one side of the stream.

Maintenance Required – the Ruins of Château du Bois Thibault

The day’s outing continued with a visit to another castle just a couple of minutes drive north of town. Château du Bois Thibault was also built in the 15th century. And, guess what? It was also closed that day. Right. Still, this wasn’t quite as harsh of a blow because Bois Thibault is a ruin so we were able to see much of it by walking around the exterior. It sits out alone in the countryside, still an impressive sentinel keeping watch over the northern approaches to Lassay-les-Châteaux. It is definitely worth seeing and we hope to return to it one day when it’s, you know, open.

Despite the disappointment of having the gates of, not one, but two castles locked against us, we still had a wonderful trip. However, revenge is a meal best served cold, but then microwaved and washed down with a nice glass of Côte du Rhône. [Or better yet, just skip the revenge (after all, it’s cold – yuck!) and go straight for the wine.] The point here is: Lassay-les-Châteaux is well worth a second look. And, more recently, after finishing up work on our holiday rental apartment, we finally got around to making our return.

Ridiculously Beautiful – the Castle Courtyard

And this time the castle was open. Le Château de Lassay is privately owned; it’s our understanding that the family maintains residence within part of the complex. Across the street from it is what must have been a large barn. Now it is the ticket office and gift shop. Purchasing our tickets, we discovered that viewing the château is by group tour only. Neither one of us is a big fan of tours. The tour guides often rush their groups through areas where they don’t have a prepared talk. And, frankly, they most often focus on subjects that we find trivial and distracting. We much prefer to explore on our own and at our own pace. Still, getting to see a medieval castle on a tour is far better than not seeing it at all. A word of warning if you are planning to visit Lassay: they do not accept card payments. Cash only. It’s the 15th century, after all!

Suffice it to say, the tour of the interior is absolutely well worth any misgivings you might harbor. Lassay is a beautiful castle, still substantially complete, and contains much to offer nearly anyone. If you’re a castle nerd like me, you might as well stand in a bucket of snails and call yourself Wilma if you were to pass on the chance to see it. [No offense to any of you named Wilma – or to snails.]

While in Lassay, we had a nice lunch (at La Ruette on rue dAmbrières) and we discovered a series of medieval gardens just on the other side of the lake from the château. Lovely and tranquil. Plus, a further walk through town, taking in even more streetscapes. We love this place and we are sure to come back again and again. If you have the opportunity to visit, you really should do so. You won’t regret it.

Zen in Lassay-les-Châteaux (click/tap to play video)

Jardin de la Pellerine and Dolmen de la Contrie – Hidden Gems in the French Countryside

Posted on 24/06/2023 by John Kocan

Whim. Such a great word. I like the sound of it. Whimsical, whimsy – those are good ones too. Good, woody sorts of words.* Words that will take you far in life. Perhaps even lead you to discover unexpected and lovely things.

Today, on a complete whim, we decided to take a short drive to the east of us, in search of two sites. To be honest, we had earlier planned to visit a town much further away. But we slept in. A lot. By the time we roused ourselves out of bed, it was much too late to get there and back in time for Saxon’s afternoon walk. We didn’t have the heart to break our dog’s schedule. He’s very punctual. So we hastily picked a couple of alternates and headed off , not really knowing what we were going to find.

Should I Stay, or Should I Go? – A Confusion of Signs at the Trailhead

First on the agenda was an allée couverte, or dolmen. Just one of a multitude of prehistoric megaliths dotted around western France, the Dolmen de la Contrie is a burial chamber constructed sometime between three to seven thousand years ago. This particular dolmen is located Mayenne, in a wood just north of the town of Ernée. Not the easiest place to find, we followed country roads to a turnout with some aging signs which may, or may not, indicate that one is allowed to walk through private property 100 meters to the site. We were a little apprehensive, but marched down the trail which leads pleasantly through a stony wood bordering secluded pastures. It was hot, so we were glad of the shade as we trampled onward. Not a soul was about. Not even a cow.

The trail emptied into a small, open grove of ivy-covered maple and beech trees. A small, clear brook gently burbled around the edge of the grove. There, in the center, stretched the line of massive,carefully laid stones like an ancient dinosaur frozen in time. Impressive. Awe-inspiring. Astonishing. Take your pick. We’ve seen several of these prehistoric megalithic structures now, and still they do not fail to immediately bring us to a stunned silence. It is simply stupefying how clever and industrious our prehistoric ancestors could be. I cannot really articulate why, but it somehow feels important to witness their efforts, to marvel at their accomplishments. It’s a humbling but satisfying experience. And only 20 kilometers away from home. How lucky is that?

Burial Chamber of the Neolithic Rich and Famous (click on each photo for a larger version)

From the dolmen, we hopped back into Ernée where we slightly crashed a funeral in order to use the public toilettes by the church. We were appropriately discreet and I think we managed not to offend anyone. Needs must. Slinking away, we dashed into a boulangerie where our sad faces convinced the baker to make us an after-lunch jambon et beurre (ham and butter on baguette) sandwich which we shared in the car.

Pausing at the Garden Entrance-That-is-Not-an-Entrance

Our next target was a garden: Le Jardin de la Pellerine. Classed as a jardin remarquable it’s only 18 minutes by car from our house. We have passed the sign pointing to this garden a number of times on our way to other places, but had not before given it much regard. Still, it was intriguing. And this time we thought, “Why not?” So, a short twist through the small village of La Pellerine and then a couple of kilometers amongst the open, undulating farmlands beyond, one comes to a lovely cottage surrounded by beautiful hedges and trees.

Numbered Signs and Bedazzled Arches in the Garden

Initially, we weren’t sure if we were in the right place. The French, it seems, excel in the art of subtlety when it comes to marketing. They are, in our experience, so subtle as to be positively enigmatic. Therefore the signage here (to the extent we could find it) was diminutive and somewhat confusing. But we eventually managed to work it out and we soon found ourselves at the garden’s welcome desk where we were met by yet another notice scrawled on the table: “Je suis dans le jardin … Follow the numbered signs.” Casual-cool, we supposed. We shrugged our shoulders and continued on, looking for sign number 1.

As it happened, the numbered signs pointing the way through the various areas of the garden were very regular and clear. We had the entire place to ourselves and enjoyed a tranquil meander through countless garden rooms. There was a gentle breeze bringing us a myriad of floral perfumes and a ever-changing chorus of birdsong as we feasted on the visual delicacies of carefully curated herbaceous borders. The color palettes of each space are generally subtle and very pleasing. This gardener is not aiming for the botanical fireworks of the great château gardens. No, she has wisely painted her canvas with the gentle, classically calming colors of the french countryside. It is beautifully accomplished.

And it spreads over several acres. With her home firmly, organically situated in the center, La Pellerine expands into more open lawns, a charmingly shabby-chic conservatory, ponds, water features, bridges and woodland paths. The owner/designer has created an oasis of shaded and sun-dappled tranquility midst the vast hectares of open farm fields which surround it. The effect is magical and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit there.

It was only at the end of our tour when we met the owner. She accepted our money for the entry fee with complete nonchalance while chatting with us and sharing her lovely dog, a wirehaired pointing griffon. She was quite happy to have her belly scratched – the dog, that is.

On all counts, our whims had paid off handsomely today. In the space of an afternoon, with minimal driving, we had sparked all of our senses and returned home feeling all the happier for it. And, we had discovered a couple of hidden gems, cultural sites which are well off the beaten track but deserving of greater attention. That, in my humble opinion, is a good day in France.

Pond, Bridge, Cottage, Person, Woman, Man, Camera, TV

*Name that Monty Python sketch. If you can, you’ve just had a very happy thought indeed. You’re welcome. If you are unaware of Monty Python, you have my sincere condolences.

The Space Above Us: Our New Holiday Apartment Project

Posted on 08/06/2023 by John Kocan

Our house is a bit odd. It’s tall and skinny with a round end. The entrance comes in near the top. The old town defensive wall runs through the middle. There is a long garden down at the base, with another small strip of scrubby wasteland on the other side. And, although it is a tower, there are other bits of buildings attached to it. A two-level industrial block of the former shoe factory which once surrounded La Tour Desnos still stands, clinging on to the west side of the house. Stranger still is a thin strip of two-story house which is attached to the tower and sits above our entrance. The whole property ranges over a confusion of mismatched levels and shapes, entrances and exits connected by a sprawling network of stairways which would have challenged M.C. Escher himself.

Early 18th Century Rendering of *La Tour Desnos* (here, *Des Nöë*) and its Environs

Although the tower itself was built in the first half of the 15th century, additional bits and bobs were added (and removed) as the centuries rolled on. At one point, they added an additional floor to the top of the tower. And up through to the last century there were also other houses attached next to the structure from adjoining properties. We think that the house which today remains stacked on top of the tower’s entry was added sometime in the early 18th century and then modified thereafter. But we can’t be sure about that without doing more research. When we bought the tower, the purchase included all of the remaining fiddly parts – except the separate house; that was owned by someone else. This arrangement always felt a bit awkward to us and we hoped that one day we might be able to join the two properties together. The opportunity arrived early this year. With Cherie’s sister as a partner, we acquired the apartment and finally made the property whole.

Before and After – The Improved Stairway Entrance to the Apartment (click each photo to enlarge)

It was always in our minds that this quirky little building stacked onto the back of our tower would make a perfect vacation apartment. With two bedrooms and a full bathroom upstairs, and a kitchen/lounge and toilette downstairs, this fully independent apartment would provide excellent accommodation for people visiting Fougères and the surrounding area. Besides, we already had all of the space we needed for ourselves in the tower. What better way to put this little house to good use than to share it with others who wanted to explore the many joys of this part of France?

Candy Crush – Installing the New Utility Shelf and Washer/Dryer Combo

The apartment had been thoroughly renovated by the previous owners: new electrics, new plumbing, insulation, paint, etc. But, some of the work they did was a bit shoddy. Mostly this was cosmetic. Nevertheless, we needed to address these shortcomings before we felt the apartment was ready for occupation. These repairs, restorations and improvements took us several weeks and we were able to do all of them ourselves. Mostly. Our friend Kelson helped us get a couple of electric radiators working – apparently you have to actually turn them on (there’s a power switch in the back of each unit). Right. Umnnn … yeah. That one’s on us.

View of the Chateau from the Stairwell Window

Kelson also helped us hook up the induction cooktop. For weeks we were puzzled as to why it wouldn’t turn on. The oven worked, so why not the cooktop? Finally, I dug a little deeper and discovered that whoever installed it had not actually wired it in. Go figure. That kind of wiring is above my pay grade, so Kelson very kindly offered to do it for us. It took him like five minutes to do it. Brilliant. It would have taken me all day while losing a finger in the process. Thank goodness for generous and knowledgeable friends!

While I fiddled with installing various lighting fixtures and whatever else needed to be hung from the most challenging location on a ceiling or wall, Cherie took charge of the interior design. With a little consultation by Michelle, mom Valerie, and even me (only in moments of desperation – apparently I am color-challenged), she worked up a collection of furnishings and decorations that transformed an empty shell into a warm, contemporary living space that our guests will find welcoming and comfortable.

What a Trooper! – Valerie Puts Together a Planter for the Entrance

And, finally, after several weeks of work, we have created our holiday rental apartment, ready for visitors. At least we hope it’s ready. We’ve never done anything like this before, so we are leaning heavily on our instincts as well as our years of experience staying in vacation apartments. We think it will be a fun way to meet new people from all over the world, share a part of France that we are very proud to call home, and perhaps even earn a bit of extra cash – all of this renovation work costs money, ya know.

In the hope of avoiding confusion between the holiday rental property and our house, we have given the rental a separate name: Chez Desnos. As regular readers of this blog know, the tower (i.e., our home) to which it is attached is called La Tour Desnos, so the name seemed a fitting link while maintaining the distinction between the two. If you are curious (and you know you are) and want to see more, you can check out the Chez Desnos website we have set up for the apartment and/or go directly to our Airbnb listing. And if you are interested in visiting this part of the world we would love to have you stay. Cherie has put together an extensive and comprehensive guide to the town as well as a host of options for sightseeing within a two-hour drive of the house. It’s full of ideas and we’re updating the guide all of the time. There is so much to see and do here.

The Dynamic Duo – Val and Cherie in the *Parc du Nançon* Below *la Tour Desnos/Chez Desnos*

As always, thanks for checking out our blog and keeping tabs on what we have been up to. We try to stay busy, without being too busy – in an active, retired sort of way. Relaxed busy? Is that a thing? Well, it is for us. And we’re getting pretty good at it. Another forty or fifty years of practice and we’ll have considered the whole enterprise a success. Here’s hoping that all of you have already found, or are soon to discover, your own preferred brand of relaxation/peace/contentment. And maybe, just maybe, a small part of it will include a visit to our lovely corner of the world and a stay at Chez Desnos. Come see what we’ve done with the place. We think you’ll enjoy it.

Finding Our France

A New Life in the Old World

Tag Archives: Americans Living in Europe

Lassay-les-Châteaux – A Town And Two Castles

Jardin de la Pellerine and Dolmen de la Contrie – Hidden Gems in the French Countryside

The Space Above Us: Our New Holiday Apartment Project