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Get Your Feet Wet – La Tourbière de Landmarais

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Bog Land Paradise – la Tourbière de Landmarais

I’m just going to say it: Spring is the best season of the year. It is.

Most people say it’s Autumn or Summer. And yes, yes, they’re pretty good too. We all like a bit of sunshine, a bit of heat. But you truly can have too much of a good thing. Summer is overindulgence personified; it’s a surfeit of obscene temperatures and overly-optimistic expectations that never pan out. Autumn is all pumpkin spice kitsch, dying vegetation and a spasm of macabre cosplay. Let’s not forget Winter – the Grim Reaper of seasons. Occasionally someone will choose it as their favorite. I can never tell if they’re just being contrary or if they choose it because everyone else has already chosen the good ones. Weirdos, whatever the case. The best I can say is that Winter is definitely in the top four of all the seasons.

Ah, but Spring. Spring is the beginning, it’s renewal, exuberance, exultation. It is simply Nature declaring itself. No more, no less. The wind may blow. The rain may fall. But there is no denying the joy of this annual renaissance, the promise of another year of the thrilling sound of birds singing, the heady scent of roses blooming, the warming sight of lambs at play in the meadows. It is all such a deliriously delicious buffet for the senses. And the power of this infectious explosion of life is at its zenith in Spring. Undeniably, the top season.

Woodland, Water and Sky

So it was in this elevation of spirit that Cherie and I took a sunny Spring afternoon off from our exhausting retirement and drove the 10 kilometers north of Fougères to La Tourbière de Landmarais. This natural area comprises 26 hectares of marshland – one of only three rainwater source peat bogs in Bretagne. that was restored and established as a regional park in the late 1980’s.

Since at least as early as the Middle Ages the bog had been used as a source of peat, the turves cut, dried and burned for domestic cooking and heat. Large scale exploitation of the peat here was first employed under the direction of occupying German forces during World War II with additional industrial digging conducted in the 1960’s. These 20th century intensifications led to considerable damage to this sensitive ecosystem. Much of the water had been drained away, leading to the degradation of the remaining peatlands. In the 1980’s the Département of Ille et Vilaine purchased the area and established it as a regional park. Through careful management by the regional authorities, the wetlands have been restored. They now provide a beautiful natural space for a wide range of wildlife, as well as an enjoyable place for visitors to walk and observe.

Wellies are Optional

On any given day, you will have the entire park to yourself. Except for a good number of migrating birds, insects, and all of the creepy-crawly creatures that inhabit the still, tea-stained waters of the bog. Well-tended wooden walkways allow you to proceed out over the marsh, winding your way through tall-grass tussocks. The stillness is pervasive, broken only by the low murmurs of conversing waterfowl in the distance – a much better way to calm your spirit than a €300 hot stone spa treatment.

The Walking is Easy

A broad trail leads around the perimeter of the marshland, leading you past pleasantly green pastures and through woodland. The flowering trees are alive with bees. The busy humming of their work to collect pollen and break their winter’s fast on nectar is a symphony to which several species of songbirds chirp and trill their endorsements of the season as they flit through the branches overhead.

Oak Sentinels Standing Firm in the Boggy Ground

All of the trails are flat and very easy going. Perfect for a casual walk. Parking is easy as there is a dedicated graveled car park for the site. There are interpretive panels at the entrance but we found their design to be overly clever, to the point of being enigmatic. Best to look up information on this park online if you are curious. A pair of binoculars and a good birding book wouldn’t go amiss either, but the park is completely enjoyable without them.

New Grass Springing from the Old

Peaceful, beautiful and very accessible, La Tourbière de Landmarais is a lovely place to celebrate Spring – or any of the other, lesser, seasons. Maybe we’ll see you there!

Pretty Little Parné

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Rush Hour in Old Parné

Cherie and I have been in a bit of a self-imposed lockdown. Not due to illness or lack of interest. We’ve just been busy with the many little things in life which can bog you down if you are not careful. Bills, banking, tax preparation (for two separate countries), a thousand little house projects, managing the holiday rental … how do people accomplish all of these things when they have jobs and kids?

The tasks just keep coming. But sometimes you just have to throw down the tools and have some fun. So we bravely ran away and took an afternoon off to visit a nice village about an hour’s drive southeast of us: Parné-sur-Roc.

Looking Out Over the Val d’Ouette

Driving south, a few kilometers past the city of Laval, a country road takes you to Parné. We were lucky, in early March, to have sunny weather so we parked the car and took a long stroll through the village streets. Much of Parné stands upon a slope which rises from the Val d’Ouette where the small river slowly winds its way westward between verdant hills.

Les Fours à Chaux – The 19th Century Lime Kilns

Parné’s a small place, home to around 1,300 inhabitants. But it has been around for several centuries. Probably since at least the time when the area was a province of the Roman Empire. They must be doing something right. During the Middle Ages the village found itself on the main pilgrimage route leading from Tours to Mont-Saint-Michel. In the 19th century, entrepreneurs of the area took advantage of local limestone deposits by building a series of successful lime kilns, the remains of which continue to rise above a row of workers’ cottages built to house their employees. Now, the main occupations are in agriculture, manufacture of aluminum and PVC building construction components, and a trout hatchery.

John Enjoying a Moment of Reflection on the Medieval Bridge

At the point where the old pilgrims’ way crossed the river spans a medieval bridge. Simple, with two arches (a third was added in the last century to facilitate water flow), this ancient bridge has somehow managed to last for centuries. It has seen countless travelers tread its roadway – ranging from the most humble animals to the very kings and queens of France itself. It’s a beautiful thing, with its quiet, timeless solidity and imbued with such deep history. Spending a few quiet moments here, with the sound of the burbling river and the songbirds chirping in the trees will do you much good.

A Small Part of Église St. Pierre Without Scaffolding

Strolling up the hillside to the center of the village, we came upon a lovely church. Or, at least that’s how it seems in photos I’ve seen. We were disappointed to discover that Église St. Pierre is currently enshrouded in scaffolding. Head to toe. Front to back. Restoration is a constant fact of life in Europe. Which is, of course, a good thing. But it was a shame on this day. Because this 11th century church is also reputed to have 13th, 16th and 17th century fragments of frescoes remaining on the walls. We would have loved to see them, but the inside of the church was closed off as well. Perhaps another time.

A Few of the Village Darlings (click on each photo to enlarge)

There are several lovely houses ranging around the core of the village. There are some nice examples of medieval domestic architecture (my favorite) as well as from later periods. All of them blend together in a very pleasing way. Many have plaques which present a brief history of the building. We found them to be informative and interesting and they helped us better understand the area’s past. I wish our own town would do something similar.

19th Century Workers’ Cottages

We enjoyed our visit to Parné-sur-Roc. Because it’s a small place, it is probably best to include it as part of a day-trip to nearby Laval and Entrammes. The three together make for a full and well-rounded day of sightseeing. You won’t find any food or window shopping in Parné (or Entramme, for that matter), but Laval will serve you well in those respects. This small village is definitely worth a look.

Bonnes Fêtes!

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Château Fougères Wrapped in Rouge

In the immortal words of Ebeneezer Scrooge: “What’s to day [sic], my fine fellow?” Now that we’re retired, we often awake with that question in our minds. Each day is much like the other throughout much of the year. But, in December, the days are still distinctive, pointing us inexorably toward the holidays. The French embrace Christmas with no less enthusiasm than Americans, or any other place, for that matter. Reminders of the season are everywhere in our town. Fougères is scintillating with lights and activity right now.

Rue Porte-Roger in Holiday Splendor

I’m not really one for holidays, but even I am struck by a certain excitement in the atmosphere. I’ve just taken a walk into the square this early evening to pick up a fresh baguette for dinner. It’s already fully dark, but sparkling lights are everywhere illuminating the way. The streets are filled with townspeople and visitors alike, all of them in high spirits as they peer into the shop windows or chase after their children scattering excitedly over the cobbles. There is a certain infectious intoxication that even a hardened cynic like myself can’t entirely dismiss. The walk has done me good.

Within la Tour Desnos, Cherie is entirely in her element. She loves this festive season. The lights, the decorations, the parades, the food, the music: it’s all definitely her bag. With the warm bread now tucked under my arm, I reflect fondly on how much joy these celebrations give her. Returning home, I turn the lights on the wreath hung on our front gate and rush back into our ancient but cozy home. There I find Cherie radiating good cheer and bustling about the kitchen. The lights on the Christmas tree are casting rays of hope throughout the house and the familiar tunes from A Charlie Brown Christmas fill the air. We kiss each other warmly in greeting as I deliver the baguette, my hunter-gatherer duties now fulfilled. Perfect.

Taking a Break From Our Morning Walk for a Quick Selfie

We hope that all who read this find their own bit of perfection this holiday season. Together with our old buddy Saxon (now thirteen years old and counting) the three of us have been enjoying yet another wonderful year in France. May you, too, enjoy peace, happiness and lots of laughter in this time.

I recommend starting with a warm baguette!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone!