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About John Kocan

John & Cherie and their dog Saxon currently live in Brittany.

The Space Above Us: Our New Holiday Apartment Project

Chez Desnos

Our house is a bit odd. It’s tall and skinny with a round end. The entrance comes in near the top. The old town defensive wall runs through the middle. There is a long garden down at the base, with another small strip of scrubby wasteland on the other side. And, although it is a tower, there are other bits of buildings attached to it. A two-level industrial block of the former shoe factory which once surrounded La Tour Desnos still stands, clinging on to the west side of the house. Stranger still is a thin strip of two-story house which is attached to the tower and sits above our entrance. The whole property ranges over a confusion of mismatched levels and shapes, entrances and exits connected by a sprawling network of stairways which would have challenged M.C. Escher himself.

Early 18th Century Rendering of La Tour Desnos (here, Des Nöë) and its Environs

Although the tower itself was built in the first half of the 15th century, additional bits and bobs were added (and removed) as the centuries rolled on. At one point, they added an additional floor to the top of the tower. And up through to the last century there were also other houses attached next to the structure from adjoining properties. We think that the house which today remains stacked on top of the tower’s entry was added sometime in the early 18th century and then modified thereafter. But we can’t be sure about that without doing more research. When we bought the tower, the purchase included all of the remaining fiddly parts – except the separate house; that was owned by someone else. This arrangement always felt a bit awkward to us and we hoped that one day we might be able to join the two properties together. The opportunity arrived early this year. With Cherie’s sister as a partner, we acquired the apartment and finally made the property whole.


It was always in our minds that this quirky little building stacked onto the back of our tower would make a perfect vacation apartment. With two bedrooms and a full bathroom upstairs, and a kitchen/lounge and toilette downstairs, this fully independent apartment would provide excellent accommodation for people visiting Fougères and the surrounding area. Besides, we already had all of the space we needed for ourselves in the tower. What better way to put this little house to good use than to share it with others who wanted to explore the many joys of this part of France?

Candy Crush – Installing the New Utility Shelf and Washer/Dryer Combo

The apartment had been thoroughly renovated by the previous owners: new electrics, new plumbing, insulation, paint, etc. But, some of the work they did was a bit shoddy. Mostly this was cosmetic. Nevertheless, we needed to address these shortcomings before we felt the apartment was ready for occupation. These repairs, restorations and improvements took us several weeks and we were able to do all of them ourselves. Mostly. Our friend Kelson helped us get a couple of electric radiators working – apparently you have to actually turn them on (there’s a power switch in the back of each unit). Right. Umnnn … yeah. That one’s on us.

View of the Chateau from the Stairwell Window

Kelson also helped us hook up the induction cooktop. For weeks we were puzzled as to why it wouldn’t turn on. The oven worked, so why not the cooktop? Finally, I dug a little deeper and discovered that whoever installed it had not actually wired it in. Go figure. That kind of wiring is above my pay grade, so Kelson very kindly offered to do it for us. It took him like five minutes to do it. Brilliant. It would have taken me all day while losing a finger in the process. Thank goodness for generous and knowledgeable friends!


While I fiddled with installing various lighting fixtures and whatever else needed to be hung from the most challenging location on a ceiling or wall, Cherie took charge of the interior design. With a little consultation by Michelle, mom Valerie, and even me (only in moments of desperation – apparently I am color-challenged), she worked up a collection of furnishings and decorations that transformed an empty shell into a warm, contemporary living space that our guests will find welcoming and comfortable.

What a Trooper! – Valerie Puts Together a Planter for the Entrance

And, finally, after several weeks of work, we have created our holiday rental apartment, ready for visitors. At least we hope it’s ready. We’ve never done anything like this before, so we are leaning heavily on our instincts as well as our years of experience staying in vacation apartments. We think it will be a fun way to meet new people from all over the world, share a part of France that we are very proud to call home, and perhaps even earn a bit of extra cash – all of this renovation work costs money, ya know.

In the hope of avoiding confusion between the holiday rental property and our house, we have given the rental a separate name: Chez Desnos. As regular readers of this blog know, the tower (i.e., our home) to which it is attached is called La Tour Desnos, so the name seemed a fitting link while maintaining the distinction between the two. If you are curious (and you know you are) and want to see more, you can check out the Chez Desnos website we have set up for the apartment and/or go directly to our Airbnb listing. And if you are interested in visiting this part of the world we would love to have you stay. Cherie has put together an extensive and comprehensive guide to the town as well as a host of options for sightseeing within a two-hour drive of the house. It’s full of ideas and we’re updating the guide all of the time. There is so much to see and do here.

The Dynamic Duo – Val and Cherie in the Parc du Nançon Below la Tour Desnos/Chez Desnos

As always, thanks for checking out our blog and keeping tabs on what we have been up to. We try to stay busy, without being too busy – in an active, retired sort of way. Relaxed busy? Is that a thing? Well, it is for us. And we’re getting pretty good at it. Another forty or fifty years of practice and we’ll have considered the whole enterprise a success. Here’s hoping that all of you have already found, or are soon to discover, your own preferred brand of relaxation/peace/contentment. And maybe, just maybe, a small part of it will include a visit to our lovely corner of the world and a stay at Chez Desnos. Come see what we’ve done with the place. We think you’ll enjoy it.

With the Holiday Rental Completed, It’s Back to Repointing Stonework for Me

Les Belles Vues de Granville

Junior Fashion Icon – Dior in His Granville Garden

“It’s only an hour away. Why haven’t you been there yet?” All of our French friends in Fougères are surprised/bemused when we sheepishly admit that we have yet to visit Granville. Cherie and I would exchange looks, acknowledging to each other our private misgivings about this town: casinos, congested beaches, hordes of tourists, souvenir shops as far as the eye could see – that was our impression. Not really our kind of thing. But our friends are always enthusiastic on the subject. Hmnnn … were we missing something?

Valerie’s visit gave us the impetus to give Granville a look. It’s always fun to share new places with her. So, off we went, north from Fougères to Avranches, and then west along the coast of the Baie du Mont-Saint-Michel. Well-trod and not particularly interesting highways all of the way. Then, by a circuitous route through the outskirts of town, we ended up in the center of our destination. Parking wasn’t too difficult to come by. But this was the middle of the week during the run up to high season, so I imagine the ville becomes much more congested as the summer months roll on.

Cliffs and Beaches – Granville’s Got a Lot

Aaaah, there it was: the long, broad stretches of sandy beaches flanked by the blue waters of the bay on one side and on the other side, like a bank of barnacles, was the cliffside, encrusted with buildings. I had to admit, it was striking. Grand. Scenic. Immense. Even from the lower parts of town, the views out to the ocean are sweeping. The weather was mild and there were a number of hardy souls taking advantage of the conditions to swim, paddle board, windsurf and sail. Oh, sailing! I felt the pull myself. Granville is one of those places that compels you to engage with the sea. But we had other things in mind for our visit that day. Like lunch. Sailing would have to wait. Perhaps another time.

The Commercial and Tourist Hub

Wandering in to the lower town’s busy commercial streets, we admired the many restaurants, bars, bistros and cafés. A nice variety. We made our way to a restaurant specializing in couscous dishes that we had spotted earlier and sat down inside. The menu looked excellent. Fortunately, Cherie asked our server about the presence of fresh coriander (cilantro, as we know it in the U.S.) in any of the dishes. Pulling a slightly puzzled face, he responded, “Yes. It’s in everything.” Oh. Cherie is allergic to fresh coriander. Not in an emergency ambulance kind of way, but even a small amount of those soapy green leaves causes her great digestive upset. We tendered our apologies and made for the door.

Our Second Choice Was First Class

Around the corner was a nice épicerie with a small restaurant tucked away inside: La Pulpéria. We were pretty hungry by now, so we ducked in and sat down. With our wine, an excellent local cider, and water, we enjoyed a fine meal, looking out on to the busy pedestrian street outside. While we ate, Granville got on with the business of daily life and welcoming a steady stream of tourists – jobs for which the town is ideally suited.

The House of Dior

The three of us only had one specific site we planned to see in Granville: le Musée Christian Dior, the childhood home of the legendary fashion designer. The house where he spent his early childhood is perched high on a cliff overlooking the seaside. Surrounded by beautifully laid gardens, this moderately sized home was purchased by Dior’s father who owned a large fertilizer company. Christian was born there but the family only lived in Granville for a few years before moving to Paris. Nevertheless, like many well-off Parisians of the time, they continued to take their summer holidays in Granville.

The Peak of Tulip Time

The Dior house is surrounded by pleasant gardens. Christian himself was a keen gardener and he designed several aspects of the landscaping which are still on view today. The flowers were in full bloom – all of them bursting to compete for attention. And the grounds enjoy some spectacular views out to sea. It must have been a soul-satisfying place to live. Not to be forgotten, there is also a nice teahouse featuring a wisteria-clad terrace on which one can enjoy a civilized cuppa.


The Dior house is entirely given over to a museum. If you are keen to see how the family lived, you will be disappointed. But the many exhibits are well-curated and present an interesting look at the designer’s creative and professional life. Scores of dresses and accessories are on display. Fans of haute-couture and the Dior brand will be thrilled by the depth and breadth of the collection. The man’s originality and skill cannot be denied. It was amazing to see how radically Dior altered the course of clothing design and how his innovations are still so strongly reflected in the clothes we wear today. Gardens, fashion from the past, and extraordinary seaside views: we enjoyed our visit to the Dior house.

A Monument to Savagery – WWII German Gun Emplacement

Of course, when in Normandie, you’re never far from reminders of the Second World War. Situated at the northern entrance to the Baie de Mont Saint-Michel, Granville was ideally suited to defend against an Allied invasion. There are still remnants of the gun emplacements and military installations put in place by Hitler’s forces. Just above the casino, on the Point du Roc, are the remains of concrete bunkers, gun emplacements and barracks. Considerable effort was put into reinforcing this fortified point by the German army. But it was all for naught. The Nazis ultimately abandoned Granville without a fight after the D-Day invasion in June, 1944.


Towards the end of our visit, we made our way to the old, upper town on the Point du Roc, or Cap Lihou. This turned out to be our favorite part of Granville. Beautiful, old buildings with stone, render and timber-frame façades, a medieval gateway, a lovely old church, and lofty views over the harbor and far out to sea. What’s not to like? We pretty much had the old town to ourselves. I love it when the locals far outnumber the tourists. It feels much more like an actual place where people live year-round and everybody has a true interest in what happens there on a day-to-day basis. The Point du Roc felt like that kind of place.

A Refreshing Break

While up there, we stopped at a bar situated in a lovely square. It was getting a little hot and cold drinks seemed like just the ticket. Typical for a French bar, everyone was sitting outside at a dozen or so impossibly thin metal bistro tables and chairs ranged haphazardly about the ancient cobbles – there wasn’t a soul inside. Even the bartender spent most of her time in the square, taking drink orders and chatting away with locals. She seemed reluctant as anyone to be within. A couple in their seventies, sitting next to us, were habitually ignoring each other: he distractedly glancing at a newspaper, she mulling over her book. They proved to be a nice quiet buffer zone between us and the rest of the bar’s customers, all of whom were talking, gesticulating, and laughing in that inimitably relaxed way the French have been born with. I wish I had it in me. But I don’t. I do admire it though.

In this very pleasant atmosphere, within this unlooked-for square which so generously unfolded itself to us like a springtime gift basket, we enjoyed a real moment of tranquility. We sipped at our drinks, chatted away (to the slight consternation, I thought, of the older buffer couple next to us) and let the joie de vivre permeating this place gently wash over us. I’ll never stop saying it: it’s the simple things that give us all the most happiness.

A Casino on the Shore

And that was it. Our visit to Granville was a success. And much more enjoyable than we had thought it would be. Yes, there are the endless shops and restaurants clamoring for the tourist trade, the casinos, and the crowded (albeit beautiful) beaches. And if that’s your thing, then you’ll love Granville. But this town also offers another side: beautiful views, an elegant museum, clifftop gardens, and an old town where traditional French life has persevered through the ravages of seaside weather, wars, occupation and the rush of progress to continue celebrating the good, small things in life. So, why haven’t you been there yet?

Thanks for visiting with us. See you again soon!

You Can Find Relief in the Dior House Gardens

A Little Night Music

Darkness Begins to Cloak La Tour Desnos: View From the Parc du Nançon

Saturday. We had just returned home to La Tour Desnos after a nice meal out at a friend’s restaurant up the street. The air was clean and cool, but not cold. A lovely Spring evening. So I walked into the séjour (living room) and opened one of the doors to the little balcony which looks out over the Parc du Nançon below. As I swung open the door, I was greeted by the sound of a strong, confident female voice accompanied by a jaunty accordion. There, below me in the park, was a clutch of perhaps fifty revelers gathered in front of a pair of musicians as the glowing light of dusk was slowly giving way to the night. Traditional French music filled the air as it soared in rich waves up to the top of our tower.

What a surprise! A small, informal concert in the park, virtually at the foot of our home. And the music was, at least to my American ears, that kind of arm-swinging, head-bobbing, sing-along, smoky cafe style that is so quintessentially French. To such a degree that I felt compelled to search the crowd for Hemingway sharing a drink (or two) with Picasso and Gertrude Stein at a little bistro table while puffing away at their cigars and Gauloises. I’m almost certain they weren’t there, but it was a nice image that I had concocted in my mind’s eye.

Both the chanteuse and accordion player were top-notch, really talented. So much so that I stood there, on our little balcony, for the next hour, transfixed, swooning with pleasure at the way the music had so taken me. I listened contentedly as the tunes rolled by, clapping my appreciation along with the crowd below as each one finished. The shadows slowly crept in, darkening the scene at my feet. And our resident host of small bats began to fly about the tower, indulging in a moving feast of insects as they careened through the air. The music played on with that particularly French combination of angst and verve.

But nothing lasts forever. Except perhaps Twinkies. At length, the singer closed her last song with a crescendo and the accordionist gave a final flourish to end the evening’s entertainment. The crowd of cheerful listeners began to disperse. And I, with bittersweet reluctance, watched them all go into the night. The park was once again quiet, apart from the excited but hushed voices of a few stragglers who, like me, were unwilling to let go of the musical high. But they were soon gone as well. Eventually, I left the balcony and closed the door, content to have such a special memory of life in France. How lucky I felt to be living here where such magical serendipity seems to happen with such astonishing regularity. My hope for you, dear reader, is that you, too, may someday chance upon your own special memory of a magical moment in France. I promise you that it’s not difficult. You just need to be here.

Until next time, here’s a little taste of the evening:

For Your Ears Only [click to play]