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About John Kocan

John & Cherie and their dog Saxon currently live in Brittany.

Minding the Gaps

The New Jardin Gate

It’s been a long, soggy summer in Bretagne. Being mossy children of the misty Pacific Northwest of the United States, we don’t really mind it so much. In fact, we prefer it if the alternative is excessive heat. A strange sentiment to many of you, I know. A good many people spend their lives thinking about ways to escape to sunshine and warmth. A rational inclination, I suppose.

But I maintain that living in rainy climates builds character. It engenders discipline, breeds endurance, teaches patience – in most people, that is. I, myself, acquired none of those qualities. I just got wet. A lot.

Yuck! The Cave Entrance Before Pressure-Washing (obviously)

One consequence of the rainy weather this year is that many of the north-facing, shaded areas of our home quickly acquire a green sheen of mosses and algae. Surfaces get slick. As a result, I’ve become even more well-acquainted with our trusty pressure-washer. It’s either that or risk the very likely chance of falling to my doom in our courtyard or terrace or, even worse, down the long stone staircase to our garden. Pressure-washing could be seen as a nice, zen-like activity. Slowly, methodically sweeping the jet of water back and forth; the gradual but satisfying reveal of a pristine surface; a place cleansed of the detritus it has accumulated over time. A metaphor for refreshing one’s soul. Mostly, it’s just dirty, cold, backbreaking drudgery. At least the way I do it.

Shaping the Tops of the Pickets

The pressure-washing was inspired during an entirely different activity: installing gates. My primary activity this summer was to fill two gateways to our jardin. First on the docket was to address the smaller opening at the top of the jardin stairs. This was the more urgent task as this gateway mediates between our rampart terrace and the precipitous tumble of stone steps leading down to the garden at the bottom of the tower. Saxon (our dog), now thirteen years old, walks unsteadily past this opening every day on his way to the area where he relieves himself. He can sometimes be a little shaky on his feet these days. His eyesight is not so good either. Cherie lives in terror at the thought of the poor guy taking a wrong step and careening into the open stairwell. A scary thought.

The Finished Gate for the Rampart Terrace

One side of the opening at the top of the stairs is quite irregular, so there were some challenges to the design of the gate. I opted to construct a picket-style gate with regular proportions rather than trying to match the sloping angle of the low wall on the side where it latches. The construction is pretty basic so I added some decorative scalloping to the tops of the pickets and chamfers to the rails. After fumbling around for a week or so, I managed to produce the results you see here. Not particularly dramatic, but much more secure for Saxon.

The Jardin Gateway in Ruins with the Ruelle to the Left

The gate at the bottom of the jardin was an altogether different prospect. It’s a large opening – over two meters tall – and it opens out onto a public path (known locally as la ruelle) that follows the line of the ramparts on the north side of the old town. When we bought the place, the old gate had already rotted and been bashed in by vandals. So, the new gate needed to be big and secure. The resulting gate was so heavy and large that we opted to lower the beastly thing over our sun terrace wall and down two floors to the ruelle below. [For those of you who are climbers, riggers or arborists, we employed a simple Munter hitch to provide the necessary drag to lower the load safely. It worked like a dream.] Lots of beefy timbers, large, hand-forged clinch-nails and three big hinges resulted in a strong gate that should serve for many years to come.

Rebuilding the Jardin Entrance and Steps
The Gateway Reborn

Cherie was the true star of the summer. In a fit of inspired masochism, she decided to subject herself to not one, but two prolonged rituals of French administrative hell. Firstly, she wanted to get a French driving license. Bewilderingly, there is no general agreement for exchange of driver’s licenses between the U.S. and France. Instead, there are individual agreements between some U.S. states and the government of France. Unfortunately for us, the state where we hold licenses maintains no such agreement. Brilliant. And so Cherie enrolled in a driving school to receive the requisite training instruction. It was a months-long, arduous process involving a massively intense knowledge test followed by a driving test. Both were administered entirely in French. True to form, Cherie passed them both on the first attempt. Also brilliant (but without the sarcasm). She’s now the proud holder of a French driving license.

We have now lived in France long enough to be eligible to apply for citizenship (or, permanent residence – but where’s the fun in that?). Once again, Cherie dove head-first into the breach and applied. The first thing one must do when applying for citizenship is prove that your French language abilities are sufficient. Currently, this means at least a CEFR (Common European Framework of Reference for languages) B1 level in speaking, reading and oral comprehension. Cherie studied hard and, again, passed her test on the first try. Amazing. Truly, I have no idea how I ended up in marriage with such a smart and capable partner. It’s one of those miracles I try not to question for fear of breaking the magic. Currently, the love of my life is awaiting her final citizenship interview where she will submit the reams of supporting documentation she has had to procure and answer questions on a wide range of topics including French history and civics. She’s ready. And I have no doubt she will soon be the proud holder of a French passport.

Saxon Meeting the Other Poodle in Town – Our Boy is 13 Years Old and Still Game to Play

Well, that’s just a sample of the many small tasks we’ve been up to over the summer. France continues to surprise and amaze us. Life is good and we love it here. We hope to be taking more time to explore and visit new places with more posts to come!

Me and My Continued Adventures Installing Crown Molding, This Time in Our Office

Admiring the Streets of Moncontour

Treasures Around Every Corner

It was the middle of the week. We had finished yet another changeover for our holiday rental the previous day. Feeling a little tired, we decided that a quick exploration would be just the ticket to revive our spirits. The other day I had seen a short video online about a town which looked kind of interesting. Winding streets. Centuries-old architecture. A history reaching back for centuries. Definitely our kind of place. The ville of Moncontour has attained the coveted designations of being a Petite Cité de Caractère, as well as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Not bad, we thought.

The Old Town Defences

It seems that there was a settlement at Moncontour as early as the 7th century. The later medieval town developed on top of a narrow, rocky escarpment situated at the confluence of two small rivers. Its purpose was to guard the western approaches to Lamballe, then the capital of the area known as Penthièvre. The ville was encircled with strong stone ramparts and round towers, clinging to the steep slopes that tumble down to the waters below.

L’Hôtel Kerjégu (now the Mairie) – a 17th c. Testament to Moncontour’s Past Grandeur

Although the town expanded through the centuries, it appears to have changed little since the 17th and 18th centuries. In the past, it thrived on the weaving of linen and hemp cloth, exporting these goods through the ports of St. Malo and Lorient to Spain and the Indies. By the 1790’s, the town boasted more than 2,000 inhabitants. But a slow decline over the ensuing two centuries reduced the population significantly. By 2021, only 745 people made Moncontour their home.

Once We Were Giants

From Fougères, we drove an hour-and-a-half westward to Moncontour. It sits about 24 kilometers south of Saint-Brieuc in pretty countryside, surrounded by rocky hills and steep-sided vales. One enters by climbing up the ramp-like approach that mounts the side of the escarpment. Once on top, you are surrounded by lovely old buildings. Once regal and proud to display their proprietor’s success, many of the ancient homes now bear a patina of diminished fortune and a want of population to support them. For the visitor, it presents a charming age and is pleasantly evocative of the past centuries. However, I am not so sure it is as reassuring to those who live there.

Commerce

Moncontour is not a town for shopping. There are precious few shops, though we did pass by a fine-looking bookshop. If you are looking for something sweet to take home (or eat in the street if you can’t wait), then the patisserie on Rue Notre Dame is quite good. We bought a rather delectable slice of chocolate torte there and, quite proud of our restraint, managed to wait until we got home to eat it.


The real show in this lovely little town is the ambiance. We simply let ourselves wander down the quiet lanes, admiring the many stone and half-timbered buildings which line them. A good number of the homes and shops are well-kept, lovingly maintained and restored. But many others, sadly, stand empty, a bit worn down and sagging as the accumulating years threaten to melt them away. Fine examples ranging from the 14th through the 18th century await any lucky wanderer who cares to appreciate the art and skill of those past artisans.


Possibly the star of the panoply is the church. L’Église St. Mathurin proudly anchors the center of town, a broad square affords a pleasing view of the church’s west front and its bell tower projecting skyward. The building’s constituent parts cover the early 16th to 18th centuries and somehow with age have combined into a harmonious assemblage. We were dazzled by the several 16th century stained glass windows still intact and seemingly as fresh as the day they were made.

By the time we arrived in Moncontour, we were feeling quite hungry. And, thankfully, it was right at the beginning of the sacred two-hour lunchtime which our fellow French citizens observe with meticulous regularity. In fact, lunchtime might just possibly be the only event about which they are so precise. Excepting, perhaps, the Tour de France.

Really Good Burgers from the Wizard of Les Remparts

Not intending to miss out, the two of us cast our keen eyes about the town, searching for our next meal. As you might imagine might be the case in such a small town, the choice was limited. Luckily for us, Cherie thought we should try a little place just up the street on Rue de l’Union: les Remparts. Unassuming in the extreme, the place was almost entirely full. We were shown to one of the last open tables by what turned out to be the sole owner/chef/bartender/server/and dishwasher. This man did it all, and he was nothing short of a phenomenon. We counted 7 tables and 18 diners, six of whom were a group of hungry construction workers. Despite a surprisingly extensive menu plus daily specials, he took orders, poured drinks, cooked, served meals and took payment – all in the time you would expect of at least three or four normal human beings working flat out. Moreover, the food was quite good and well-presented. Needless to say we were well impressed. It was a performance worthy of a Nobel Prize. Do give this restaurant a try if you visit.

We had a fine time in Moncontour. Relaxed, eminently picturesque, it’s one of those many places in France where you feel really fortunate to be a traveler. We’re glad we came and thankful that towns like this exist.

Reflecting on Our Good Fortune

The Olympic Flame Comes to Fougères

The Torch Bearer and His Olympic Enforcers Pacing Past Our Gate

Surprising things happen in our little town in France. No, it wasn’t the appearance of a rude-shaped turnip in the market; not the invention of a new baguette with frosting and sprinkles; nor even the sighting of a grown man peeing with joyous abandon onto a memorial in the main square in broad daylight. [Although we did witness the last one yesterday while taking Saxon for a walk.] Even though all of those stories would easily make it onto the front page of the local edition of the newspaper here, it was something much more unusual.

Crowds Begin to Gather Down Our Street

Saturday morning. Crowds began to gather throughout Fougères. There was a murmur of excitement building in front of our gates as people hurriedly laid claim to key viewing sites on the street in front of our house. The flame of the Olympic Games was coming to town.

The Procession Begins – Can You Spot the Torch?

Joining the general hubbub filtering through our normally sedate neighborhood, Cherie and I walked down the hill to the square next to the castle. A sizable crowd had gathered to see the arrival of the olympic flame. After a surprisingly brief introduction, the first runner (more of a slow jog, really – the sort of thing you do when you see your bus pulling away, make a half-hearted show of quickening your pace for a few steps, and then stop in the acknowledgment that you never had a chance in hell of catching the damn thing in the first place) began the procession.

The Coca-Cola DJ, Bringin’ the Love (and tiny cans)

Everyone was very excited. This was the olympic flame, after all. Direct from Greece. As part of the buildup for the Summer Olympics in Paris, the flame has been making its way through several parts of France, including Bretagne. For some reason this included Fougères. And, for an hour or so, we played host to the sacred flame of Udûn, er, Olympia. Pretty cool!

Old Flames – the Passing of the Olympic Torch

While the torch relay wound its way through the center of town, the two of us climbed back up our street and grabbed some sidewalk turf in front our gate. Like seasoned paparazzi, we skulked on either side of the pavement, Cherie in an archway, and me perched atop a stepping stool – my parents forgot to check the box for a statuesque build when they ordered me, so I needed the extra height. After a cavalcade of trucks sent by corporate sponsors to blare music and fling mini-cans of sugary drinks at unsuspecting bystanders, the torch bearer came loping down towards us. She passed the holy fire to the next bearer, they posed for a few photos, and then the new bearer let gravity take hold as he ambled with solemnity down the slope.

Opening Ceremonies in Front of the Château

And that was it. For a few moments, we were swept up in the planet’s gravitational pull towards the 2024 Olympics. It was an intoxicating moment. Pretty big stuff for our small piece of France.

Our Fifteen Minutes of Flame Trundles Away Down Our Street